| The
hub of ancient Alexandria was known as Rhakotis . It was
situated about 1.5km (1 mile) southwest from the Korniche
along shari`
Salah ad-Diyn and shari`
`Amuwd al-Sawariy . At its center is `Amuwd
al-Sawariy proper or "The Horseman's Pillar"
which is situated o top of a shapeless hill surrounded by a wall - This
is now all that's left of the acropolis of the Ptolemies.
Long
before Alexander arrived on the scene, this hill was the citadel
of Rhakotis, dedicated to the worship of Osiris. The Ptolemies
in their turn contracted a temple of Serapis on its summit. Here,
with a collection of around 200,000 manuscripts given to her by
Mark
Anthony, Cleopatra endowed the second great Alexandrian library,
which was to remain attached to the Serapeum until the temple itself
was destroyed by a mob. Unbelievable as it seems now, this was the most
learned spot on earth for almost a century.

Today
not much of the Serapeum remains: some tunnels in the rock with
crypts and niches and a few marble pillars. But the principal attraction,
a solitary 22-metre (72-ft) high pillar of pink Aswan
granite, seems to touch the sky defiantly.
When
European travelers arrived in the 15th century the pillar caught
their attention. they wrongly named the pillar after Pompey,
believing fables which said that his head was enclosed in a ball at the
top.
It
actually has nothing to do with Pompey, according to an inscription
on its base, It was dedicated in c. AD 297 by the prefect of Egypt
to
the emperor Diocletian (1) for
his victory in AD 296 over the Christian Achilles, who had
usurped the title of emperor.
On
the west face of the granite base, the following four lines in Greek characters
can still be deciphered: "To the most just of emperors, the divine protector
of Alexandria, Diocletian the invincible: Posthumous,
prefect of Egypt." It was set up in honor of Diocletian, who
supplied food for the starving population after the siege of the city.
and it may once have had an equestrian statue on top which would explain
its Arabic name; `Amuwd al-Sawariy.
`Amuwd
al -Sawariy was the, most important surviving element
of the Serapeum, the ancient temple of Serapis, which certain
ancient writers described as the most beautiful in Alexandria and
second only to the Capitol in Rome.
The
temple was built on a platform reached by a flight of one hundred steps.
In the sanctuary was a richly decorated statue of Serapis, a Graeco-Roman
deity combining the attributes of Osiris and Apis. Excavations
carried out in 1943-4
in the southeast and southwest corners of
the Ptolemaic enclosure yielded remains of the foundations of the temple
containing plaques made of gold, silver, bronze, opaque glass and ceramic
tiles which bore the inscription in Greek and in Egyptian hieroglyphics:
"King Ptolemy [III Euergetes], son of Ptolemy and Arsinoe,
divine siblings, [has dedicated] the temple and sacred enclosure to Serapis".
The
Serapeum
was destroyed toward the end of the century during the reign of
Trajan (98-117) and a new temple was probably built in the following
decade, during Hadrian's reign. In AD 391 the Christians
destroyed it and built a monastery and a church dedicated to
Saint John
the Baptist, which in turn did not last. The remains of Roman
baths and various statues of the Sphinx and Ramsiys II brought
to Alexandria from Heliopolis (date unknown) can still be
seen on the site of Pompey's Pillar. The function of the
two long, underground galleries set with niches to the west of the pillar
is not known for certain.

One
theory is that funeral urns were placed in the niches; another maintains
that birds and other sacred animals were buried there. Another somewhat
ludicrous hypothesis would have it that they were used as shelves for the
books of the "sister"
library of the Great Alexandria Library.
They were most probably dedicated in some way to the worship of Serapis.
From here, it is possible to regain the city center via the canal or the
Siydiy Gabir district.
Some
historians believe that "Pompey's Pillar" was part of the
portico of the "sister" library of the Great Alexandria Library
housed in the Serapeum. The 88 foot pillar
(including the
base)
is made of pink Aswan granite and tapers slightly from the
9-foot diameter of its base to one of 71/2 feet at the top.

A hill
littered with the remains of an ancient walls, architecture fragments and
rubble on which stands Alexandria's largest ancient monument : A pillar
made of red Aswan granite with a Corinthian
capital. |