| In
April
1860, a year after the start of the preparatory works of construction
and the stroke of the first pickax, Colquhoun had sent a qualified
observer to the Canal site to report on its progress. At present, apart
from the Sweet Water Canal, the work was confined to the northern end of
the Isthmus-to the building of the harbor of Port Sa`yid and the
digging of the first reach of the service canal the rigole-across Lake
Manzalah
and
so to Lake Timsah in the center. But a string of eleven stations
had been provisionally established along the whole line of the projected
Canal, whose course was marked out at intervals by stakes.

Each
station was manned by a group of the Company's European employees, living
and working in houses built sometimes of stone but more generally of imported
timber and local mud-brick or rubble, with roofs made of reeds from Lake
Timsah
interlaced
very ingeniously. Workshops and stores were at hand, together with lime-kilns
and brick ovens for the use of the builders. The Egyptian laborers lived
near by in tents or mud-huts. In the larger stations the blocks of buildings,
which included a hospital, a canteen and a general store, were already
laid out, with boulevards and streets-to-be in the French manner, each
named after the Company's more prominent engineers and shareholders-Rue
de Lesseps, Rue Ruyssenaers,
Rue Mougel.
One
of the stations around Timsah never in fact to be built was
named Lessepsville; another, soon to be abolished, was named Toussoun,
after the Viceroy's young son. Situated to the south of Lake Timsah,
it served as a general supply center for the works of this sector, and
the Consular observer found it reasonably well organized. Throughout the
night colored lights were hoisted to guide Arabs bringing in fuel from
the desert; throughout the day bells were rung at regular times to mark
the shifts of the native Egyptian workmen. Pains had been taken to
lay out some kind of a garden, the soil being frequently washed to remove
saline deposits and irrigated by a windmill with water which was drinkable
only by camels. Here too was a forge for the manufacture of minor utensils,
and a pound containing livestock sheep, bullocks and innumerable fowls.
The whole station was subject to diseases of considerable virulence, the
most formidable being dysentery.

Some
two hundred Europeans in all were at work in the Isthmus, men from all
quarters of Europe with difficulty held together by the mere hope of gain.
For the present their salaries were so low as to bar any hopes of profit
sufficient to counterbalance the daily sacrifice of comfort and society,
and many would leave, disillusioned, when the first flush of enthusiasm
wore off. often taking their frustrations on the Egyptian fallahiyn laborers,
whom they regarded as the refuse of the native population and whose
" insolence" provoked them!.
Now
De
Lesseps, starting on a tour of the northern half of the Isthmus, proceeded
across the shallows of Lake Manzalah into a landscape once
watered by a branch of the Nile . Thus he reached
al-Qantarah,
the start of the caravan road into Syria. This station, designed
to become a large depot of machinery, would be directly linked with Port
Sa`yid as soon as the dredgers had cut a twenty-five mile service channel
through the mud of the lake, and another dredger had been brought overland
in sections to be reassembled and start the work from this end of it. Meanwhile
a preparatory channel had been excavated by hand. The Egyptian laborers,
familiar with the mud of their lake and its habits, scooped it up in large
handfuls, pressed it against their chests to squeeze out the water, and
when dry piled it in lumps, one on top of the other.
From
al-Qantarah
De Lesseps proceeded southwards through a dry swamp which was to become
Lake
Ballah-an offshoot of Manzalah
to the sand dunes of
al-Firdan,
whose excavation was soon to start, and where now, as at al-Qantarah,
complete well-being, gaiety and good health reigned. Continuing his journey
to the south, he explored the basin of Lake Timsah, twenty
feet below sea-level and dried up for centuries past, but now destined
within measurable time to be filled by the waters of the Mediterranean.
Here, nearly half-way between the two seas, where the sea water canal from
the north would meet the Sweet Water Canal from the west, lay the site
designed to be the principal inland port of the Isthmus.
Looking
across this gaping void of sand and gravel and blackened sun-cracked earth,
Lessees saw as in a mirage the day when it would "shelter the fleets
of all the world". On its western rim he marked out, with his party,
the lines of a town which would be known as al-Isma`yiliah,
after Muhammad Sa`yid's successor, Isma`yil.
Southwards
they looked down towards the bluish silhouette of the `Attaqah mountains,
which rose above the Gulf of Suez. Between lay the Bitter
Lakes, to be linked with Timsah by a stretch of the Maritime
Canal and with Suez by another, while the line of the Sweet Water
Canal would turn south, to run parallel with both. Such was the plan for
the second phase of the works, planned to begin when the northern half
had reached a certain stage of completion.
Few
technical difficulties stood in the way of the construction of the Suez
Canal. It was to be cut in a relatively straight line, through some
sixty miles of water and forty miles of land-three large lakes and three
stretches of desert between them. The land was in fact a natural depression,
parts of which must in the past have held water. Everywhere the soil was
easy enough to work, being composed of sea-sand in the north, and gravel
and clay in the south, with here and there layers of gypsum (useful for
the making of lime), but nowhere, it seemed, more than an insignificant
trace of rock.
The
canal at al-Qantarah
In
the bed of the Bitter Lakes lay a large deposit of crystallized
salts, from the days when the Red Sea flowed into them. The land
was level enough to require no cuttings except through three ridges or
plateaux across the path of the Canal, none higher than forty feet above
sea level. These were at al -Gisr, between al-Qantarah
and
Timsah; at the Serapeum, between Timsah
and the Bitter Lakes; and at Shaluwf, between the
Bitter Lakes and Suez. Only one of these cuttings was seriously
to tax the skill of the engineers that of al-Gisr where the work
was to take longer on account of the problems of excavating soft sand.
Otherwise
the technical challenge of the Suez Canal lay less in the piercing
of the Isthmus itself than in the construction of its artificial port,
on the Mediterranean. Here nature had provided no inlet from the sea to
LakeManzalah.
Nor was there any land but a thin strip of beach, sometimes no more than
a hundred yards wide, with the waves washing over it. Moreover the bay,
like the lagoon, was exceptionally shallow; ships could only lie three
miles out; and any attempt to dredge a navigable channel would be threatened
by the prevailing current from the north-west with deposits of silt from
the Damietta branch of the Nile.
Port
Sa`yid thus had to be built up from nothing by man, in defiance of
the forces of nature, and with the assistance of no local building materials.
It was to be contained within a western breakwater, built to enclose 450
acres
of water. First, the pioneers erected a lighthouse some eighty feet high,
made of timber and designed for a revolving light, which would be visible
fifteen miles offshore. Then they threw out a jetty, built on piles, of
which the larger were not merely driven but screwed into the mud and the
sand of the sea-bed. This was some five hundred yards long, but was planned
to extend to two miles. Out beyond it an island, to which the jetty would
ultimately be joined on completion of the western breakwater, was built
from heaps of stone. But, as had now been proved, there was almost no stone
in the Isthmus, none nearer than the `Attaqah
quarries at Suez,
which were still inaccessible. Until later, when a form of concrete was
made on the spot, from imported lime and local sand, all the stone for
the new harbor had to be brought from the quarries of al-Maks, beyond
Alexandria,
a journey of
150 miles by sea.
The
breakwater at Port Sa`iyd
The
initial problems of the construction of Port Sa`yid were thus problems
less of engineering than of transport in essence, problems of organization;
and the same applied at this stage to the construction of the Canal as
a whole. Uppermost in the minds of the Company's team, throughout these
first three years, were the difficulties of supplying builders with materials,
workshops with tools and machinery-above all workers with food and water,
a commodity as scarce as stone.
These
were years when the choice lay literally between life and death, not merely
for the scheme as a whole but for the men engaged in it, tens of thousands
of whom would be laboring if in a waterless desert. In search of water,
wells had been sunk from one end of the Isthmus to the other. But with
a few exceptions the water found was so saline and bitter as to be undrinkable
by man, and often even by camels. It was to meet this problem that the
Sweet Water Canal was designed, and the rigole, the service channel, which
between them would supply water along the whole line of construction.
But
several hard and thirsty years must elapse before the completion of either.
The Sweet Water Canal was at last to be finished in February 1862,
bringing fresh water to the heart of the Isthmus for distribution to the
stations around. Later that year a pumping station was established at its
junction with the lake, which conveyed water by pipeline along the salt
water stretch of the rigole to
Port Sa`yid; and at the end of 1863
the southern, fresh water half of the rigole was to reach
Suez.
Meanwhile, since men must work and the Canal must grow, machines were introduced
for the condensation of steam into water, which was often of inferior quality.
But still the greater part of it had to come overland, for long distances
and at great cost, from the Nile valley by fleets of boats across Lake
Manzalah,
and by daily caravans, across the desert, carried by thousands of camels.
But
a crucial problem still confronted the Company that of the supply of the
labor itself. It was all along Britain's firm intention, agreed between
Bulwer and Lord John Russell, to arrest the Canal works by any
means, in alliance with the Porte, now their pretext was that they were
against the use of forced labor in the Isthmus.
Officially,
the first indication of this policy was given in the House of Commons on
June
25, 1861. To a question by Mr. Darby Griffith as to whether
the practice accorded with the various "humane edicts of the Ottoman
Empire", Russell replied that the British Government had objected
to it at the Porte, and was now investigating the position in Egypt
itself.
Meanwhile however the Viceroy, who was obliged under the terms of the Concession
to supply the Company with labor, remained reasonably consistent in evading
such pressure.

From
1861
onwards the Company was calling upon the Khidiwiy for corveé
on a mounting scale. Thanks to these requests, the number of Egyptian laborers
in the Canal zone had increased by the end of 1862 from 2,500
to
50,000
with
promises of further contingents to come.
In
the winter of 1861 De Lesseps, with a shrewd sense of timing, conducted
the Viceroy on a tour of the center of the Isthmus, which disposed him
towards further requisitions of forced labor. He was happy to sail down
the Sweet Water Canal, gave orders to his Governors for the forced labor
required for its completion to Timsah, and started to talk
of its continuation, independently of the service channel, as far as Suez
a work which should serve De Lesseps as a pretext for an extra levy
of 100,000 men. The Viceroy made a triumphal entry into Toussoun,
in a carriage drawn by six mules and preceded by a cavalcade of richly
caparisoned dromedaries. His stalwart Viceregal Guard, 250 strong
and mounted also on dromedaries, preceded him as he drove through two long
ranks of Fallahiyn laborers.
Adding
their voices to the strains of an Egyptian military band, they cried out
"Long
live Sa`yid!" Before returning to Cairo he was presented with
specimens of the various plants grown on the land which it had proved possible
to irrigate-a load of maize, cabbages, cauliflowers, watermelons, radishes,
potatoes, grasses, and a variety of ingredients for salads.
Early
in the following year, the Sweet Water Canal was completed as far as the
Lake. But the sea water rigole from Port Sa`yid took longer,
on account of the obstacle placed in its way by the plateau of al-Gisr.
This was a huge dune of sand, some thirty feet high and ten miles broad,
constantly shifting and thus tending to fall in wherever a space was dug
out. To maintain a cutting through it involved the ultimate excavation
of 50 million cubic yards of sand, a task which was to take almost
as long to complete as the whole of the rest of the Canal. But, thanks
to the labor force now available, enough of it was removed by hand and
a preliminary channel cut deep enough to take, by the end of that year,
a stream of water, still shallow but just deep enough to permit the operations
of dredgers.
On
November
18, 1862,
at eleven o'clock in the morning, the waters of the
Mediterranean
flowed into Lake Timsah.
A
special train, graciously provided by the Viceroy, transported Lesseps
and his guests, who included the Consular representatives of the European
countries, from Cairo to Zagaziyg. Next day they visited
the "Wadiy lands", by the old Canal between Zagaziyg and
the Nile, which the Company had bought from the Viceroy. Acquired for the
dual purpose of supplying Nile water to the Sweet Water Canal, and irrigating
new lands for the shareholders' profit, they were developing into a fine
agricultural domain. Thence the party was conveyed down the Sweet Water
Canal to the growing town on the shores of the lake, destined to become
the town of al-Isma`yiliah but still named Timsah.
On
the landing-stage they were welcomed by the national anthems of France
and of Britain "as it were",
De Lesseps recorded, shrewdly an invitation
to union, on the very ground lately believed to be a source of discord
between the two countries.
They
then proceeded to the spot where the Canal, having at last penetrated the
intractable plateau of al-Gisr, was to join the lake. Here a triumphal
arch had been erected in honor of Muhammad Sa`iyd, at the
end of an avenue of columns adorned with agricultural implements. This
led to a Viceregal kiosk, built at his command and now surrounded by Venetian
masts, from which fluttered bright-coloured pennants. Beyond, at the foot
of a long low ridge, which was to become the Asiatic bank of the Canal,
lay a trench, containing a stream of water fifteen meters wide-salt water
from the Mediterranean, ready at the appointed moment to precipitate itself
into Lake Timsah.
Deputizing
for the Viceroy,
Isma`iyl Bey, his heir-apparent, presided
over the men whose years of toil had achieved this consummation, together
with the Grand Muftiy of Egypt, the principal `ulama'
of Cairo, the Shaykh al-Islam, and the
Catholic Bishop of Egypt, with his clergy around him. De Lesseps
called for silence. Then, addressing the laborers massed on the dyke, which
still dammed the waters, he proclaimed: `In the name of His Highness
Muhammad Sa`iyd, I command that the waters of the Mediterranean
be introduced into Lake Timsah, by the grace of God!'
All
eyes were turned on the dyke. In a solemn silence the workers cut the dam.
Then, with a cascade of water and an avalanche of soil, the Canal broke
through into the lake. There was a roar of enthusiasm. The "Bravos !"
of the French vied with the "Hurrahs!"of the English. Tears coursed
down sun-bronzed cheeks as a band broke into the Egyptian national anthem;
the `ulama'called loudly upon Allah, and the Grand Muftiy
intoned
a sonorous
fatwah, for repetition throughout the mosques
of Egypt:
| It gave thanks to
the Almighty for this grand and beneficent enterprise. It sought His protection
for the reign and the life of Muhammad Sa`iyd, a ruler who
worked day and night for the happiness, the prosperity and security of
his people! |
.
De Lesseps
afterwards wrote of the occasion:
| "What the ancient
world could not do the modern world has done. Today, the union of the Mediterranean
with the Red Sea must be regarded as an accomplished fact" |
What
was omitted from this momentous occasion was, that in order to achieve
this "murderous enterprise", ten of thousands of Egyptian fallahiyn
were dying, under the merciless rule of forced labor.
The
waters of the Mediterranean flow into lake Timsah
TO VIEW THE PREVIOUS
EPISODE (PART FOUR)
CLICK HERE
"Those who do
not learn from history are doomed to repeat it."
|